Spring Has Sprung
TIPS:
Do not ignore the "last frost date" for your area. Check with your local extension agent to find out about your area.
The higher angle of the sun, combined with the fact that many shade trees have not yet leafed out, means that some of your
"shady" windows may be getting fairly bright sun at times of the day that will be shaded later or were shielded from the low
angle of the winter sun.
This is great for starting seedlings for later planting out. The stronger sun will keep them compact and strong and well
adapted for sunny spots in the garden. Be on the alert - the sun combined with the warmth and dryness of your home means
frequent checking to see if watering is needed.
On the other hand, the added intensity is terrible for sun-sensitive houseplants. Move them out of the direct line of the
sun's rays, but keep them in good light. Remember, the basic criteria for houseplant lighting is would you be able to read a
newspaper there without turning on the lights.
Do not ignore the "last frost date" for your area. Check with your local extension agent to find out about your area.
HINT:
Never set your houseplants in the sun, even for a brief time. They are unaccustomed to such intense light and can be severely damaged by sunburn.
One of the worst things you can do for your houseplants is to "give them some sun." This is like taking someone who has been
in a cave all winter and staking them out on the beach for a day. Severe sunburn can result. Sunburn may look like a vague
brownish / reddish area on the leaf surface exposed or it may result in whitened dead areas on the leaf. The dead area may
take a while to show up, even after the plant has been moved back inside.
Sunburn is a big danger of moving a large plant outside, in the shade, to hose down and give a thorough watering, All too
often, the plant is left for a few hours and the sun changes position and...sunburn.
There is another aspect of this time of spring changes. In an amazing choreography, the warming ground springs to life while
the canopy of trees remains bare. Under those later leafing shade trees the sunlight still streams, a precious treasure to be
fully used by the understory. Bulbs rush to bloom. Perennials quickly flower. And then suddenly, the trees are leafy once
again and the shady floor settles in for the summer.
A couple of great choices for planting under trees are Snowdrops (Galanthus nivalis) and Siberian Squills (Scilla siberica)
They both bloom very early in spring and may bloom together or else the snowdrops will be followed by the squills.
Snowdrops - Galanthus nivalis USDA Zone 4
Snowdrops are extremely early bloomers, often poking their nodding white flowers through the snow. They are small, about 6
inches (15 cm) high, but if massed in drifts they give a very nice effect. Although usually sold in the fall with other
spring flowering bulbs, snowdrops are best transplanted when growing or just after blooming. Just lift a clump, roots and
all, and pop it into the new spot.
Bluebells, Siberian Squills - Scilla siberica USDA Zone 4
There are many species of bluebells, and most will do very well under trees that have not yet leafed out. The 6 inches (15
cm) high Siberian Bluebell has a striking, brilliant blue that combines so well with snowdrops that it makes for a very early
spring showstopper.
Both Siberian bluebell and snowdrops really need cold weather to be at their best. Small numbers of these plants tend to get
lost. To be effective, they need to be planted en mass. But don't despair thinking you must spend a fortune on huge
quantities of bulbs. When they are happy, they will spread naturally and become a main feature of your early spring garden.
Never set your houseplants in the sun, even for a brief time. They are unaccustomed to such intense light and can be severely damaged by sunburn.